Press Reviews
2012
- 02/2012
iD Online
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[url]http://i-donline.com/2012/02/dont-sound-like-no-sonnet/[/url]
- 02/2012
Idol Magazine
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- 02/2012
TZEGOH featured on Vogue Italia
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http://www.vogue.it/en/talents/vogue-video-lab/2012/02/tze-goh-pe-2012
- 02/2012
Fashion 156 --AW12 Preview
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- 01/2012
Pop Magazine Online
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- 01/2012
Elle Belgium
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2011
- 12/2011
Code D'Acces Feature
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BACKGROUND
Singaporean-born designer Tze Goh took his sewing machines and bolts of fabric to Clerkenwell, a hip district in London, five years ago. He welcomed us at his studio that is reminiscent of a Chinese washhouse seen through the exotic, sophisticated photography of a Wong Kaw-Wai film. We found ourselves in the calm, sober den of the specialist in neutral colors, rich fabrics and crystal clean cuts. His studies at Parsons School in New York and Saint Martins School in London began with a year of initiation classes in the Big Apple. He soon discovered his interest in modeling the human body. As a future designer, fashion and clothes become a means of creating new body shapes. Tze Goh explores and metamorphoses.
STYLE
His style can be defined as ‘ austere purity’. He deliberately chooses neutral colors to accentuate the key element of his clothing – their shapes and volume. Hemlines are short; the cuts are neat and feminine, midway between Jil Sander and Martin Margiela. Instead of using themes he focuses each season’s collection on a certain inspirational fabric or materials to which he gives a sculptural dimension. Abundant of silk and cashmere state, however, his work’s position as luxury clothing.
IN 10 YEARS
Let’s talk about the future. In ten years time Tze Goh hopes to have become an established, recognized label for refined men and women who want to buy beautiful original pieces from around the world (stores and internet). He wants to create timeless garments that become keynote pieces in one’s wardrobe, something like feature pieces of designer furniture and anything but a passing fashion fad.
- 11/2011
Grazia Italy
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- 11/2011
Harper's Bazaar UK
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- 11/2011
A Shaded View on Fashion
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Dear Shaded Viewers,
As most designers know, simplicity is the hardest thing to achieve. Born in Singapore -but based in London- Tze Goh designs clothes that are minimal, but innovative at the same time, focusing on strong shapes and high-quality fabrics. I met the designer in Antwerp and was impressed by his understanding of geometry and function. His line is currently stocked by prestigious retailers, such as LN-CC in London and Sien in Antwerp.Text by Philippe Pourhashemi
http://dianepernet.typepad.com/diane/2011/11/tzegoh-ss-12-text-by-philippe-pourhashemi.html
- 10/2011
Surface Magazine
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Jeanine Celeste Pang
TZE GOH crafts contours with an architect's eye
Despite alternating passions for both architecture and graphic design, Tze Goh ultimately decided to express his love of minimal silhouettes through fashion. The Singapore-born, London-based designer chose wisely.
Hailed by The Business of Fashion for its "minimal, shape- shifting vision," his 2010 Central Saint Martin graduate collection was carried by London store LN-CC, and his last collection was featured at Vauxhall Fashion Scout's "Ones to Watch" show during London Fashion Week.To Goh, fashion is about the exictement of changing a silhouette through folding, draping pleating, and tucking, and then creating volume and structure by inventing his own material, such as a malleable 3-D foam. "My garments give a new silhouette for women so that when you see her, there are not preconceived notions," he says. " Her own personality shines through." Goh describe his spring/ summer 2012 collection, done in earthy ombrés, as "aerodynamic looks through soft folds, strict lines, and menswear tailoring." Minimalism has never looked this interesting. Or sensual. - JCP
- 10/2011
1883
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Photographer : Arved Colvin-Smith
Styling : Magda Bryk - 10/2011
Planet Notion
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At Planet Notion we’re always looking out for the next big designer, so Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch, is a LFW must-see. Their AW11 show featuring Kirsty Ward, Tze Goh and Sara Bro-Jorgensen, blew us away, and we’ve been itching to get out sticky mitts on the collections for the past 6 months. Last week we finally got out way, and along with some of our favorite British accessory designers are pleased to present to you our Haute Young Brits.
Photography: Alexander Jordan
Styling: Siam Goorwich
Hair: Meggie Cousland
Make up: Molly Portsmouth
Model: Jessica Williams at IAM Casting - 10/2011
Style.com Feature
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LONDON, October 19, 2011
By Maya SingerTze Goh is something of an anomaly among the young London designers. In a city where people tend to make their fashion reputation with a bang, this Central Saint Martins grad has a habit for quietness. The mood of Goh's latest collection, his fourth, is one of Zen-like contemplativeness. Mainly what he's been contemplating is construction and ways of using fine detail in the make of his clothes to feminize and sculpture-ize traditional menswear pieces. The resulting clothes are so clean and so minimal, they threaten not to make an impression. But they do reward scrutiny.
Goh has developed an interesting signature in dense, bonded materials—his use of them gives even a casual garment like piqué polo substantiality as well as a quality of aloofness. Elsewhere, the gazar in the collars of his crisp white button-down and shirtdress makes for a nice, sharpening detail; ditto the waist-less cut of his mannish shorts and trousers. And Goh's collarless jackets and A-line shifts are so well made, it seems churlish to point out that they're a little boring. It takes a lot of confidence for a young designer to risk boredom in pursuit of subtlety; Goh is to be congratulated on his nerve. But his previous collections have shown a bit more flair in terms of color and silhouette; they were quiet yet forceful. At any rate, Goh is one to watch.
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2012RTW-TZEGOH
- 09/2011
POP Magazine Online
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Tamara Rothstein
- 09/2011
Notion
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Photography: James Moriarty
Stylist : Aaron Francis Walker - 09/2011
iD
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Sarah Raphael
Mute the volume, decrease the saturation, Singapore born designer Tze Goh is on a mission to prove a point in minimalism.
There’s something incredibly pure about Tze Goh’s designs. Never veering off course, he has stuck by his high-concept, aseptic design mantra through three seasons and SS12 is looking as sharp and sculpted as ever. Meditating over every fold and curl of fabric, the garments are like art canvases, just hung on a body not a wall. His CV is equally spotless, having studied in Paris, at Parsons School for Design in New York and completed an MA at Central Saint Martins. Now based in London, i-D online styled up a few Tze Goh pieces then sat down for a debriefing with the designer, where we spoke seriously about fashion matters with very straight faces.
What’s inspired your SS12 collection? Is it finished? Where are you showing? The SS12 collection is inspired by the aerodymanics of aeroplanes, and the air currents that swirl around them. It leads us to produce garments that are streamlined, but with a sense of volume in them, constructed through a blend of traditional tailoring and performance fabrics. I will be presenting a short film of the collection in Somerset House on 17th September, 3-7pm.
Having moved between Singapore, Paris, New York and London, what’s your favourite city? I would have to say London, as I am based here and all my friends are here.
Do you have a muse? The model Guinevere Van Seenus is my muse as she has grown up to look quite sophisticated over the years. I design with a confident women in mind, keeping my designs as clean as possible, so that when you see her in my garments, her look is not cluttered and her own personality shines though.
What attracts you to minimalist design? I like minimalist design as I think that we have so many things in the world, and so much to do, that a clean, white surface provides a respite from all the clutter in the world.
There’s a strong conceptual, artistic element to your designs, are there any artists/ architects who have influenced your work? Yes, in this season for example I was looking at Orrefors glasses for the way that the glass produces straight sharp lines and strong curved lines, which I then re-interpreted into my garments.
What’s the colour for SS12? We are working in black, navy blue, white, off white and khaki.Where do you source your fabrics? I go to Premiere Vision twice a year, and source the rest of my fabrics here in the UK – this country produces the best wool.
What music do you listen to? I prefer classical music as it can be quite soothing but I don’t like it when it becomes emotional.
What are your hopes for the future? I hope to grow the business into one that is recognizable by people as a brand to turn to when they want good products done in an understated mannerTze Goh is stocked at LN-CC.com
Photography: Duane Nasis
Styling: Raphael Hirsch
Model: Lisa V @ Premier Models
Hair: Yoshitaka Miyazaki using Bumble and Bumble
Make up: Sunanda Mesquita using Mac
Photographers Assistant: Emma Gibney
Set Designer: Mefanwy Jones - 09/2011
IDOL Magazine
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- 09/2011
Glass
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Tom Ryling
Tze Goh is one of London’s premier emerging fashion talents. His clothes are sharp and precise, his color palette strict and pure and, while there is attitude and strength in his garments, there is also a sense of romance and serenity. Inspired this season by a multitude of forms and ideas including glassware, aerodynamics and classic menswear tailoring, Glass caught up with Tze after watching his film presentation at London Fashion Week. Singapore-born and raised, Tze Goh trained at Parsons the New School for Design, New York and London's Central Saint Martins.
I know for SS/12 you’ve been inspired by Scandinavian glassware and having just seen your film presentation here at LFW I saw a nod to the work of the great Swedish director Ingmar Bergman – can you talk us through these Scandinavian influences within the film and the collection?
Well, certainly, when starting work on the collection and on the film I felt quite inspired by Bergman’s work. Persona is actually my favorite film – I love the minimal aesthetic and the way it was composed and really the whole theme of the film is about projection, which is what fashion is about. So we took it from that point and moved forward, in a way trying to show the garments within a narrative – but not necessarily in linear form but still within a story.
How important is digital culture to you as a designer? What made you decide to present this collection through film and not a catwalk?
A show is pretty much a commercial presentation, to the trade, the editors and buyers etc whereas with a film we can not just show it to all of these people, but it can be seen by everyone, everywhere and relates directly to the consumer in a way that images from a catwalk show simply can’t deliver.
Going back in time a bit – when was your first realization that fashion was what you wanted to really explore?
I think it was in New York when I was studying in Parsons. Up until then I was always drawing people and not necessarily the clothing designs on them. Then I enrolled on the fashion programme and the drawings became designs and the designs became clothes. It was very gradual.
I know you’ve lived and worked across the world; in Singapore, New York, and Paris and now you’re based in London – has each city influenced or become infused within your work? And if so, in what way?
I’m in London mainly now but Paris is where I think I really learnt to understand what sobriety really is within fashion. I know now, we might think of the shows by Dior or Louis Vuitton but that’s not what I remember seeing people in the city wear when I lived there in the late 90s – they wore Yohji for instance; a much more sobering form of fashion. And in New York, I think there a much greater sense of urgency amongst people and the clothing is much more utilitarian, which influenced me. Helmut Lang was the designer I remember representing that city in terms of style.
I see a little Helmut Lang influence within your work – he’s one of my all time favorites.
Mine too!
I read an interesting quote saying that although your clothes appear simple they are “deceptively complex” – do you think it takes a lot of knowledge and work to create a garment of purity and simplicity?
Yeah I think so. I think the truth is that a lot of our clothes, and the fabrics we use to make them, don’t actually create straight lines and as a designer I want to create that sharpness – there’s a lot of craftsmanship that goes into that process.
by Tom Ryling
Posted: 27 September 2011http://www.theglassmagazine.com/forum/article.asp?tid=3293#title
- 08/2011
GRIT
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photography: niclas heikkinen
styling: larissa defilippo hair:
michael jones using bumble & bumble
make up: angela davis-deacon @ naked artists
styling assistant: ana rita
model: hanna samokhina @ union - 08/2011
Fashion 156
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Photography: Rupert Tapper
Styling: Guy Hipwell - 08/2011
VOLT Cafe Features
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Emelie Hultqvist
Photographer | Ross Shields
Styling | Cynthia Lawrence-John
Make-up | Harsha Chavda
Hair | Marcia Lee
Model | Sophia Brown
Styling Assistant | Natasha Mann
Words | Emelie Hultqvist - 08/2011
Disegno
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Johanna Agerman Ross
T-shirts and men’s tailoring influence womenswear designer Tze Goh. Here he tells us about the making of a cashmere coat from his autumn collection.
Singaporean fashion designer Tze Goh graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2010 with a collection of womenswear based on the shape of a T-shirt. The use of fabrics normally associated with the padding of bras made the dresses look sculptural and independent from the wearer’s own body shape.
In this interview Goh tells us how his obsession with the T-shirt shape continues, while for the autumn/winter collection he also brings in elements of menswear tailoring to create more structured garments. We also get a view od his London-studio, tucked away behind an anonymous door on Hatton Gardens.
http://disegnomagazine.com/interview/6-a-cashmere-coat-by-tze-goh
- 07/2011
J'N'C
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Tana-Maria Schachtele
Your body is my canvas
Tze Goh has already caused a furore on an international scale and everyone is eagerly waiting to see what the young design talent will be sending onto London's catwalks in the coming seasons. After growing up in Singapore, Tze Goh was soon drawn to the fashion cities: first Paris, then New York, where he completed his Bachelor Degree in Fashion Design at Parsons The New School for Design, and finally to London's Saint Martins to top it all off with a Master's in Womenswear. After graduating he went straight on to creating his first womenswear collection. The first showed an abstract adaption of the T-shirt in different variations. What made it special was his ingenious choice of materials and skilled tailoring, combined to create an expression of subtle sensuality. Tze Goh remains true to this signature style - he wants to shape the look of his female clientele. The body as such gets transformed, the creative process utilises the body as a blank canvas for the artist. The end product is always a new type of silhouette or sculptural form. "Art and design in one," is how Tze Goh understands fashion. He mainly creates timeless pieces - not just because he makes sustainability his priority but also because only the truly great aspects of architecture and art endure beyond the present day.
- 06/2011
Luxure: Tze Goh
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For Tze Goh the boundary between fashion and art doesn’t exist: his minimalist pieces are a mastery of beauty. His sleek designs are so smooth to touch and so sculpted to the eye that they indeed seem, upon first appearance, to be sculpted rather than sewn. Before his latest collection Goh experimented only with white fabrics and fibres, creating a multitude of shades and sheens while ultimately maintaining a sharp design aesthetic.
His Spring & Summer look, however, which saw the introduction of colour. A pastel-shaded palette now accompanies the purity of white: sky blue and sunset orange, sherbet yellow. It is one of hyper-modernity and refined beauty that exudes his minimalist design ethos.
Emerging from the silhouette of each design, the female form is celebrated within his concept of minimalism. The garment is everything: a new female figure is created with subtlety from the malleable purity. Using such malleable fabrics, lapels are twisted sleeves are folded, and shawls are wrapped architecturally round the model.
The Spring & Summer 2011 collection is a progression from Goh’s Master Graduate Collection, which was displayed at the Central St. Martins MA show. Goh’s collection debuted a Vauxhall Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week.
- 05/2011
Business of Fashion: The Spotlight Tze Goh
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Robert Cordero
LONDON, United Kingdom — This month, the BoF Spotlight turns to Singapore-born, London-based designer Tze Goh, whom we first came across during London Fashion Week at Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s ‘Ones to Watch.’ show. In fashion, designers often combine multiple points of reference in a single collection to give their clothes a more novel and appealing context. But Goh takes a more tightly focused approach to his work.
“I don’t really understand why there are so many themes in a collection; there’s no real reason for that,” said Goh, who trained at the Parsons New School of Design in New York and Paris, before completing his MA at Central Saint Martins in London. “For me, fashion is all about changing the silhouette of a person.”
To achieve his minimal, shape-shifting vision, Goh purposefully restricts his conceptual inputs. “I typically have one or two ideas and I work within those boundaries to make sure that the result is focused,” said Goh.
For Autumn/Winter 2011, he was inspired by the Japanese kimono and the sleek interiors of Porsche sports cars to create a tonal, minimally winsome collection that manages to be simultaneously clinical and sensual. There are grey coats with seams that make them undulate about the shoulders, navy blue shifts with arm-framing sleeves, black vests and coats with twisted lapels that are feats of tailoring and geometric charcoal jackets with voluptuous sleeves.
“I take the meaning out of garments so they don’t have so much semantics,” explained Goh. “I only focus on the shapes that they give women.”
Goh uses luxurious fabrics like wool and mohair. But to achieve the rigorous, molded structure some of his pieces demand, he sometimes makes his own materials, for example, bonding virgin wool and cashmere with 3D jersey to create slightly more rigid fabrics.
But while Goh’s work is rich in technique and innovation, his end goal is simple: to create practical clothing that’s stylistically sustainable. “I want to give women clothes that don’t shock, but are compatible with their own lives,” said Goh. “It’s something they can use for quite a bit of time, but they’re still new.”
At BoF, we wish Goh the very best of luck in pursuing his minimal, structural vision as we shine the BoF Spotlight on his contemporary silhouettes, available at our favourite new store in London, LN-CC. - 05/2011
Harper's Bazaar UK
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Clare Coulson
One to watch : Tze Goh
The Central Saint Martins graduate's shapes, reminiscent of Monastic clothing, are pared down but have incredible impact. Streamlined coats and cap-sleeve dresses in chartreuse, grey, tangerine and white take the season's minimalism to an immaculate extreme
- 04/2011
Dazed Digital RISE: TZEGOH
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Felicity Carter
[b]The Central Saint Martins graduate plays with traditional purity through this collection of bold minimal and structural silhouettes[/b]
Branded the new name to watch, designer Tze Goh is becoming recognized for his bold minimal and structural silhouettes. Raised in Singapore, Goh went on to learn his trade in the fashion capitals of the world. After studying at the Parson’s School of Design in New York and Paris, he then completed his MA at Central Saint Martins. February 2010, saw him exhibit his first collection in London. With his third collection unveiled in London and Paris this season, he was one of four designers to be labelled by Vauxhall Fashion Scout as “One To Watch.”
Rooted to his upbringing, the classic geometry of Asian shapes, with A-line silhouettes and wide brimmed sleeves, prove to be a strong influence on the collection. Goh however, reworks to have a current relevance. The traditional purity is translated through his contemporary minimal shapes and the materials used. Out are the printed, draping silks of the old and in with the new-age dramatic construction. Malleable 3D foams allow his designs to be controlled and precise with deliberately constructed folds and neat lines, to give a dramatic yet disciplined impact.
Dazed Digital: Do you have a design ethos?
Tze Goh: My design ethos is one of minimalism. Smooth lines, folded seams and intricate pleating create a clean palette that allows the garments to speak for themselves.DD: What are your inspirations behind the AW11-12 collection?
Tze Goh: I am inspired by many things, both inside and outside of fashion. For the AW11/12 collection, major inspirations included the geometry of Japanese clothing design, the topography of mountains, and the clean lines of automobile interiors, especially German made automobiles.DD: Tell us a little about your materials. How do you source them?
Tze Goh: Materials in the AW11 collection include wool and cashmere, bonded with 3D jersey to create a 3-dimensional, sculptural design. I find most of my materials either in the UK or Italy.DD:Your designs are bold, and shapes are architectural, are these design traits of yours?
Tze Goh: Yes, my designs are inspired by modern architecture, especially the work of Zaha Hadid. When designing, I like to start with a simple shape, such as a t-shirt, and stretch and mould the fabric into something new, modern, creating a serenely sensual and statuesque design.DD: Who is the ideal Tze Goh woman?
Tze Goh: The ideal Tze Goh woman is not trend conscious, but sophisticated, with a timeless sense of style.DD: You’ve lived in the fashion capitals, why have you decided to settle in London? Or do you see yourself moving?
Tze Goh: After showing my graduate collection at the Central St. Martins MA graduate show, I decided to set up my label in London because it is a city that supports new and emerging talent.DD: What’s the future for your label?
Tze Goh: In the future I plan to continually develop the label, creating collections that further explore the use of fabrics, both singularly and in combination. Currently, I am designing the SS12 collection that promises new shapes and designs. - 04/2011
ELLE UK April 2011
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- 04/2011
Forward Council: TZE GOH
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Laura Simpson
Tze Goh is an outstanding up and coming London based design talent. Originally from Singapore, he trained at the Parsons school of design in New York, going on to work with various designers in Paris before undertaking the MA course at Central St Martins in London. Goh’s graduate womenswear collection debuted in February 2010 to much critical acclaim, drawing inspiration from the t-shirt, ‘transforming it from an inner garment into an outer garment until it becomes a dress, a cape, a coat.’ His signature style is minimal, conceptual, sculptural and fresh. Goh’s first collection was exclusively white in several subtle shades, creating a clean canvas in which he showcased his technical skill.
Tze’s second collection, S/S 11, elaborates upon his emilgimation of past and future inspirations. Utilising revolutionary bonded 3d jersey, a technique not seen before, sculptural and serene silhouttes drape and encase the wearer creating an original and futuristic interpretation of womenswear which is cutting edge and wearable, not an easy feat to achieve. Intricate patterns provide structure and showcase his talent supberbly whilst simultenously eccentuating the beauty and purity of femininity. Drawing from a subtle colour palatte of white, grey, sky blue, yellow and marigold, the essence of freshness, vibrance and vitality shines through the collection, creating an uplifting and sophisticated interpretation of modern day womenswear. Tze’s A/W 10 collection has been exclusively stocked in LN-CC, a London based concept store.
- 03/2011
TZEGOH Interview
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Laura Simpson
Tze Goh is an outstanding up and coming London based design talent. Originally from Singapore, he trained at the Parsons school of design in New York, going on to work with various designers in Paris before undertaking the MA course at Central St Martins in London. Goh’s graduate womenswear collection debuted in February 2010 to much critical acclaim, drawing inspiration from the t-shirt, ‘transforming it from an inner garment into an outer garment until it becomes a dress, a cape, a coat.’ His signature style is minimal, conceptual, sculptural and fresh. Goh’s first collection was exclusively white in several subtle shades, creating a clean canvas in which he showcased his technical skill.
Tze’s second collection, S/S 11, elaborates upon his emilgimation of past and future inspirations. Utilising revolutionary bonded 3d jersey, a technique not seen before, sculptural and serene silhouttes drape and encase the wearer creating an original and futuristic interpretation of womenswear which is cutting edge and wearable, not an easy feat to achieve. Intricate patterns provide structure and showcase his colossal talent supberbly whilst simultenously eccentuating the beauty and purity of femininity. Drawing from a subtle colour palatte of white, grey, sky blue, yellow and marigold, the essence of freshness, vibrance and vitality shines through the collection, creating an uplifting and sophisticated interpretation of modern day womenswear. Tze’s A/W 10 collection has been exclusively stocked in LN-CC, a London based concept store, proving high fashion items such as these are still covated in an economically restricted climate, talent always overcomes obsticles. I asked Tze about his inspirations and aspirations, here are the results.1. Why did you choose to study and work in New York, Paris and now London?
For me, Paris New York and London represented three different fashion aesthetics, and I wanted to garner experience and insight from each city, drawing on inspiration from various aspects of each city. I am now London based and see London as a place that fosters creativity and innovation.
2. Has practical experience coupled with design based experience helped you progress further as a designer and in setting up your own label?I would say yes, as my designs are a combination of my international experiences filtered into a singular design aesthetic of striking minimalism.
3. Your collection has an elegance and simplicity combining futuristic and classic elements, what drew you to this aesthetic?
I try to create the sense of the present by positing fashion between the future and the past. It is my intention that the collection sh ould have a sense of history with a modern influence.
4. Why did you choose the t–shirt as a starting point for your collection?
The tshirt represents a classic design, traditionally worn as an inner garment. I wanted to explore the structure and shape of this classic piece, stretching and shaping it until it became an outer garment in the form of capes, shawls and dresses.
5. Your designs are wearable, is this an important factor when you are creating your collection? How do you decide what women would wear?
Fashion has to be wearable or else it would be art. I try to create something that appeals to confident women with a forward thinking fashion ideal, and at the same time, keep it fresh and new.
6. Your designs are not overtly sexual, but subtle. What does this say about the Tze Goh woman?
The Tze Goh woman is interested in looking sophisticate d in a new way . She is quite confident and comfortable with herself
7. For what reason did you choose to make your collection entirely from one material, of foam mixed with jersey?
I wanted to explore the possibilities of this fabric, the possibilities of forms and colours and developing a range of clothes, both inner and outer wear with this versatile material while mainta ining the same aesthetics throughout.
8. The construction of your garments are extremely precise, can you tell us how you did this?
Fabrics are draped over forms before they are stretched and shaped into capes, shawls, jackets, dresses. Finishings of the garments are done by folding and pleating, to create a clean seam and pure finish.
9. Your use of colour is restrained to white with hints of blue and yellow. Why did you choose this subtle colour palatte ?
To me, white represents purity, a clean slate. I wanted to explore the use of white to communicate the minimalistic aesthetic of my designs. The colors used in the SS11 collection, sky blue, yellow and orange, were colors that symbolized summer and warmth.
10. Your inspiration for your A/W 11 collect ion is Japanese simplicity and P orsche cars. Is combining eastern and western design an important and ongoing inspiration for you, is it a signature of your label?
Combining eastern and western design is not something that I seek actively as I have gathered inspiration from elements both inside and outside of the fashion industry including modern architecture, art, and design.
11. Where do you see your label evolving, will there be menswear in the near future?
At the moment I am focusing on establishing a successful label spe cializ ing in womenswear fashion, but would definiltely love to include menswear in the future .
12. Would you ever consider collaborating with any designers in the future and who would they be?
I would definitely be interested in a collaboration with Jil Sander as her design aesthetic is one of serenely sensual minimalism.
Thanks Tze. - 03/2011
JC Report: Tze Goh
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Rosane Ribeiro
LONDON’S NEWCOMERS TO WATCH
London | March 1, 2011
LONDON’S NEWCOMERS TO WATCH
By Rosane RibeiroIt seems like London is particularly dizzy with excitement this season. Big names like Burberry Prorsum, Pringle, Jonathan Saunders, Matthew Williamson and Alice Temperley have made a comeback to the city. But beyond the presence of big shot brands and powerful fashion tastemakers, London is still a breeding ground for emerging design stars. With that in mind, JC Report has selected a few ascending names that we’re putting our bets on.
With an MA from Central Saint Martins and an extensive resume working for the likes of Diane Von Furstenberg, Michael Kors and Max Mara, Christian Blanken is not your average fashion star. Already known in fashion circles, he recently decided to revive his namesake brand with a distinctly more mature approach. Clean, sharp and precise, the brand is the perfect assemble of sportswear and luxe. Exuding urban glamour, the masculine silhouette is softened up by fluid fabrics like satin and silk. The spring/summer ‘11 collection was snapped up by Dolce & Gabbana to be featured at their new concept store, Spiga2, which will spotlight new designers. At London Fashion Week, Blanken showed a functional, modern yet deeply feminine and sensuous collection. The mix of shirts, tuxedo separates and silk organza is rich and stunningly timeless.
After graduating from the Royal College of Arts MA, Matthew Miller has been making a mark in menswear by working the perfect balance between traditional and high tech. Pushing the boundaries between tailoring and urban aesthetics, Miller, who is only
on his third collection, breathes fresh air into the modern gentleman’s wardrobe as well as the notion of contemporary male dressing. With his latest collection picked by Selfridges and a nod from Vogue as a designer to watch, it will only be a matter of time before Miller’s passion conquers the world.
Already featured in high fashion magazines such as Vogue UK, Harpers Bazaar Japan, I-D and Dazed and Confused, it would be possible to mistake J JS Lee for an industry veteran. Freshly out of a MA in womenswear at Central Saint Martins, Lee is only on her third collection but has already managed to establish a place at the ultimate luxurious department store, Harrod’s. Showing for the first time on the official schedule, Lee wowed a room full of buyers and editors by showcasing simplicity at its very best. Inspired by the Russian constructivism, she brought to life a group of sleek separates lined with neoprene, which gave the shape a strong but delicate shape. With her simple tailored pieces, minimalist chic approach and understated femininity, Lee is giving womenswear a new spin.
Minimal yet highly architectural, Tze Goh’s singular aesthetic is the perfect expression of subtle luxury. Technically daring, his autumn/winter ‘10 Central Saint Martins MA collection was presented in pure white because he wanted all attention on his structural silhouettes. For autumn/winter ‘11, he bagged himself a place at Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s “Ones to Watch” show by presenting three-dimensional pieces of outstanding beauty. Always pushing the boundaries of tailoring, his collections are conceptual but always carry a surprising hint of romance. Luxurious yet discreet, Goh’s vision of glamour fits perfectly with the new wave of restrained elegance. - 02/2011
ELLE The Rising Stars A/W 11: TZEGOH
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Emma Sells
Tze Goh is a pretty jet-set designer – he grew up in Singapore, trained at Parsons in both Paris and New York and is now based in London. He was one of the stand-out students at last years Central Saint Martins show, and this season he’s bagged himself a spot in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout ‘Ones To Watch’ show.
His creations are sculptural, moulded and pretty conceptual – not to mention downright beautiful. And, aside from a few show pieces, they’re also utterly wearable. The white and pale yellow pieces from his minimal, cocoon-like spring collection are topping our new season wishlist, and we can’t wait to see what he comes up with next - 02/2011
Sleek Designer Watch: Tze Goh Backstage and Interview
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Lilli Heinemann
We’re launching a new series on our website in which sleek will take a closer look at the goings-on behind the scenes at fashion shows and the ateliers of fashion designers in Berlin, New York, Paris and London.
For the first installment in the series, we paid a visit to London-based designer Tze Goh only one day before his show at the London fashion week. In his Holborn studio, the Singapore born emerging designer is unusually calm, which he explains has to do with the fact that the collection is already complete and hanging on the rails, impatiently awaiting its big outing.
Since presenting his graduate collection of foam moulded T-shirt abstractions in all shades of white last year, he was fortunate enough to bear up under the critical eyes of sated fashion editors and remained one to watch. Like a sculptor, Tze forms slick shapes with almost invisible seams, creating the illusion of pieces that are moulded rather than sewn. The architecture inspired strong silhouettes differ in subtle details, such as folds and twisting lapels, as well as restraint variations of color.[b]sleek: Would you consider your Singaporean background as an influence on your approach to design?[/b]
Tze Goh: All of my international experiences have been filtered into a singular design aesthetic and my background in Singapore represents a part of that international adventure. I left Singapore after a short stint in the army to study at Parsons at both New York and Paris, before finishing my education in Central St. Martins in London.
[b]sleek: Which designer influenced you most?[/b]
Tze Goh: I am influenced by designs both inside and outside of fashion, but am especially inspired by the modern architecture of Zaha Hadid.
[b]sleek: Did you ever consider working for another designer instead of starting your own label?[/b]
Tze Goh: I have always dreamed of owning my own label and London was a great place to launch it.
[b]Sleek: What was the main inspiration for the current collection?[/b]
Tze Goh: Inspirations for AW11 include geometric Japanese designs, the topography of mountains and the hyper-modern designs of German automobiles.
[b]sleek: Your signature is the foam casts. Can you imagine moving away from these shapes?[/b]
Tze Goh: I will continue to develop my label, designing a collection for Spring/Summer 2012, experimenting with different fabrics, singularly or in combination. Nothing is ruled out in the future.
For his Fall 2011 collection, presented within the framework of Vauxhall Fashion Week on Friday, Tze reapplied his signature foam, translated this time into much more wearable looks. The enhanced collection features more basic elements like high-waist trousers and pristine miniskirts, making his clothes more approachable while maintaining his minimalist vision.
- 02/2011
HUSK: LFW - TZE GOH
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Vinz
Who are you and where do you come from?
Tze Goh. I am originally from Singapore but am now based in London.Any ideas who you’re going to be and where you’re headed?
I plan to stay true to my minimalistic design aesthetic, designing my S/S 2012 collection and further developing my label, TZEGOH.Do you truly belive in something?
I believe in transformation. Constant development and progression in all attributes of life.What is your personal approach to aesthetics?
Purity and minimalism are key in my designs.What is it that defines fashion for you?
Fashion must be wearable, or else it would just be art and it is finding the key balance between artistry and wearability that defines fashion for me.What do your parents think about what you’re doing?
My parents are beyond supportive of my decision to live and work in London, offering advice whenever I need it.Your favourite candy?
Ginger candy.Any quotes you want to share with us and the world?”
“May be the force be with you” - 02/2011
Harper's Bazaar China Feb 2011
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Minimalism in Fashion 够极简才够IN
Tze Goh was born and raised in Singapore, and went on a global sojourn to study in Paris and New York at Parsons the New School for Design and at London’s Central Saint Martins MA fashion program.
What is your inspiration for the SS11 collection?
The inspiration came from modern architecture, in particular the work of Zaha Hadid on the Phaeno Science Centre. The collection uses a T-shirt as a starting point, expanding and stretching it into architectural forms with the use of foam, transforming it into dresses capes and coats with hidden seams and clean finishings.
Who is the fashion icon you think dressing herself or himself very bold and daring?
The model Guinerve van Seenus, who is currently making a comeback.
Would you give some advices for Chinese audience who want to make a bold statement on the silhouette?
Clean architecture silhouettes make a visual statement while maintaining an integrity of purity and modern aesthetic.
谁是Tze Goh ?
出生于新加坡的Tze 先后在巴黎和纽约的Parsons学习,2010年从伦敦中央圣马丁硕士毕业后建立了个人品牌。他在伦敦时装周的毕业秀展出的全白系列,创造出奇趣错位效果,令人耳目一新。About 创作灵感
“现代建筑设计总给我带来灵感。我的毕业秀受到Zaha Hadid的沃尔夫斯堡斐诺自然科学中心的启发。整个系列从恤概念出发,以泡棉材质扩展延伸建筑构型,制作成隐性缝线的连衣裙、斗篷、大衣等。 除此之外,家具店也是我的灵感圣地。2011年春夏我用3D运动衫取代了泡棉, 这样夏天更实穿。”谁是她的偶像?
“美国模特Guinevere van Seenus,她已经强势回归!”怎么穿才够锐?
“当然是极简主义!线条利落的建筑感时装,给人强烈的摩登视觉效果。” - 01/2011
Vogue.com: Vauxhall's Ones
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Jessica Bumpus
KIRSTY WARD, Tze Goh, Anja Mlakar and Sara Bro-Jorgensen have been named the recipients of Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Ones To Watch initiative for this February's London Fashion Week. The designers will show their creations in a back-to-back fashion show.
An MA graduate from Central Saint Martins, Mlakar takes inspiration from clean lines and sensual silhouettes while fellow Central Saint Martins graduate Kirsty Ward - who was swiftly snapped up by Alberta Ferretti following her stint at CSM - opts for the more dramatic, incorporating metal jewellery into structured silhouettes.
Selected for the ITS9 Award, Bro-Jorgensen hails from the Royal College of Art and brings with her designs drawing from 2D imagery via chunky hand knits and paper thin silk tulle.
Prior to his MA at Central Saint Martins, Goh completed a BA at Parsons in New York and has developed an architectural aesthetic - which has already caught the eye of London store N-CC.
"Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Ones To Watch has a strong history of showcasing the hottest new talents and attracts top international buyers and media. It is great to be able to launch and nurture the stars of tomorrow. We support them through the challenge of their first catwalk show as well as helping them build sustainable businesses," says Martyn Roberts, director of Vauxhall Fashion Scout.
Previous designers to show with the Ones To Watch initiative have included Dean Quinn, Hermione de Paula, David Longshaw, Eudon Choi and Alice Palmer.
2010
- 10/2010
Icon Magazine: Foam is the magic ingredient
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Johanna Agerman Ross
in these rigid garments. “It’s the same type of foam that is used for women’s underwear,” says fashion designer Tze Goh, who designed the collection of dresses and jackets for his MA graduation show at Central St. Martins in London.
It all started with a T-shirt. “I tried to find a way of creating a more structured T-shirt that was more of an outer garment than an undergarment,” says Goh. “So I researched materials and found this foam.” The traditional T-shirt morphed into more extreme shapes, eventually pinned down as nine different looks in his graduate collection.
The foam is fused with jersey in varying shades of white to create subtle variations from garment to garment. They channel minimalist designers like Jil Sander or Martin Margiela while at the same time retaining individuality and newness. The seams are almost invisibly, creating an illusion of the garments being molded rather than sewn together. “ I didn’t want anything to distract from the shape of each piece,” says Goh, who is working on his second collection to be unveiled during London Fashion Week in September. - 10/2010
Monocle: 10 new brands to watch: 05 Tze Goh, London
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Alicia Kirby
All-white womenswear indebted to Tadao Ando
This February, Singaporean fashion designer Tze Goh turned industry heads with a debut womenswear collection of nine highly sculptural looks in a single color – white. “ I want to work with white because it’s neutral and brings out the structure,” says Goh, who creates his signature stiff lines by using a material that fuses foam with jersey.
Goh is a recent Central Saint Martins College MA graduate. He spent a year under Jens Laugesen and set up his own label in July. Reactions to Goh’s first collection – showcased as art of the CSM’s MA fashion show – were positive and former Harrods buyer John Skelton bought key pieces for his new store, LN-CC, which opens in London this month.
Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo have heavily influenced Goh, but so too have architects. “ I like Tadao Ando and my necklines are taken from the unique windows of Zaha Hadid’s Phaeno Science Centre in Wolfsburg, Germany,” he says. - 08/2010
Pop magazine: Fashion photography
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Photography: Jamie Morgan
Fashion: Tamara Rothstein
Casting: Angus Munro - 06/2010
Dazed Digital: Central St Martins MA 2010
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Alex Sainsbury
We're not sure whether it's the shift in mood in general within fashion where an appreciation for the minimal is resurging or whether Louise Wilson is more hell-bent on getting a singular and clear vision based on form and shape out of her MA students. We just know that frilly theatrics and graduate collections with a colorful song and dance weren't in order last night and instead, by and large, most students honed in on concrete ideas that tried to alter perceptions of form be it through alternative ways of pattern cutting, innovating knitwear or shape building with unusual materials.
[…]
Tze Goh played with the idea of a white t-shirt and distilled these shapes into white neoprene. "It was just playing with a shirt on a stand until the shape evolves itself and thinking about how the t-shirt could stand up on its own."
[…] - 03/2010
JCReport: London lives series: a new generation’s optimistic outlook
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Robert Cordero
London’s Central Saint Martin’s is a storied design institution known for producing talented fashion designers from the late Alexander McQueen to Stella McCartney, John Galliano, Christopher Kane, Kim Jones, Hussein Chalayan and Katharine Hamnett. The school’s prestigious MA fashion program draws industry-wide attention every year, operating as a soothsayer for future talents and certain successes.
This year’s graduating class particularly stood out by adhering to a strikingly modern and simple approach rather than competing for outlandish attention. Although the designs were a marked shift from the daring and forward thinking work expected from the school—leaving some people disappointed—they signaled a strong cultural break from the mayhem of this past decade.
Tze Goh, a Singapore-born graduate of the class, for instance, produced a pristine, all-white womenswear collection illustrative of this significant shift. “My designs are part of their time. When things were a bit more over the top and gloomy, I designed along those lines. But when I chose white, it was a clean slate and wiped the past away,” he explained.
This futuristic outlook consisted of foam materials fused with jersey that used techniques more akin to sculptors than tailors. The pieces looked as if they were skillfully molded rather than sewn, a rare and difficult skill that Goh executed effectively. The collection included highlights such as a cape folded at the neck without a drawstring, a coat with twisting lapels and a simple shift dress that created beautifully random undulations when in motion.
As far as Goh is concerned, the entire past decade was retro. And with no singular aesthetic attributable to the noughties—as was the case with, say, Paco Rabanne in the ’60s or Thierry Mugler in the ’80s—it’s easy to see his point. The decade opened with optimism in clean and edgy looks, but September 11 changed the fashion world as much as everything else. “When [9/11] happened, people got scared and became distressed, so they fantasized,” observes Goh. Fashion, in turn, became more about grappling with tumultuous times by conflating familiar archetypes than with looking forward to a fresh horizon.
We may already be a decade into the 2000s, but Goh insists that “now there’s a sense of the new millennium actually beginning.” If his breakout collection—and those of his classmates—is to serve as any kind of indication of this optimistic shift, it seems there’s a bright new future ahead after all. - 02/2010
Vogue: Show Report
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Jessica Bumpus
As one of its most famous alumni, Central Saint Martins this evening paid tribute to Alexander McQueen before its MA show. A recording of the designer recalling his own experience of the fashion school played before 22 of its current rising stars took to the catwalk to showcase their autumn/winter 2010-11 collections.
And those to take note of?
Elsewhere on the catwalk and there was a move away from the body-conscious shapes we have seen from the more established designers this week and a move towards shapely silhouettes that stood away from the body or elongated and exaggerated it in some way – be it through tubing, Big Bird-esque textures, or gigantic T-shirt shapes (Tze Goh)
[…]